Brined Beer Can Chicken w/ Aji Verde Sauce

Columbus Day weekend was one of the most gorgeous weekends ever. It was sunny and in the high 70s throughout. Neil and I decided to take advantage of the weather and grill out. Lately, we’ve been super obsessed with roasted chicken. This craze started with the roasted chicken at Palena Café in DC, which hands down is the best I’ve ever had. We’ve been on a big chicken kick this past summer…frequenting Peruvian places for their delicious chickens, and ordering roasted chicken any time it appears on a menu. So, it was settled…we decided to make a chicken.

Before I go any further, let me point out that Neil prepped and cooked this chicken. For once, I was his “little helper”. I could get use to this :)

After taking advice from various food blogs, we decided to brine our chicken overnight and then use the “beer can” method to grill it. Brining is a whole new exciting world. I never knew that this was the key to juicy chicken. But, be careful not to overbrine your meat or it may result in a “rubbery” and salty chicken. I’d say 12 hours max is good. At a minimum, brine consists of water and salt. Marinating chicken in this mixture before you cook adds incredible flavor and tenderness. The subtle saltiness literally goes all the way to the bone of the chicken. Now to the beer can part. Honestly, I don’t know why this method works so well to cook chicken, but we’re sold. Apparently, when you sit your chicken’s “butt” on top of the open beer can, and cook, it causes the liquid to boil and infuse the chicken with wonderful flavor. It looks absolutely ridiculous, but I can’t argue, because our chicken was phenomenal…juicy, tender, flavorful, and succulent!

So, the steps are pretty easy…
1. Brine your chicken overnight or at least 8 hours
2. Rub it with your favorite dry rub
3. Cook (grill, oven, or roaster) your chicken as it sits on top of an open beer can. The grilling part can be tricky, and is explained by Neil in the recipe.

We also rubbed our chicken with roasted garlic butter before applying the dry rub. We didn’t think this was necessary in the end because it made it difficult for the dry rub to adhere to the chicken. We’re gonna nix the butter next time.

As I mentioned previously, we’ve been frequenting a lot of Peruvian chicken joints lately, and love the “aji verde” sauce that comes with their chicken. We found a recipe that comes pretty close to the sauce without the need for authentic, inaccessible ingredients. So, we served the chicken with the pseudo aji sauce, chipotle mac & cheese, red skin mashed potatoes, and grilled asparagus. This was the perfect outdoor feast to take advantage of the perfect weather!

See Brined Beer Can Chicken Recipe!
See Aji Verde Sauce Recipe!

Chicken Marsala

Dinner is by far my favorite part of the day. More than half my daily thoughts revolve around “what’s for dinner?” No joke! I can’t remember when I last went without dinner…I don’t think I ever have actually. I’m guaranteed to have a rude awakening once a baby is in the picture!! But, for now, it’s my time to unwind and nothing helps me unwind more than ending a day with delicious, comforting food. Marsala has been one of my go to meals when I’m out of creative ideas for an evening dinner. I’d like to be able to whip up something new and exciting during the work week, but it’s just not practical. I’ve called upon this Marsala recipe to save the day many times, and it never fails me. It’s a warm, comforting dinner that’s ideal for the colder months to come. It’s also the perfect remedy to lift my spirits and put aside my daily frustrations.


See Recipe!

Creme Brulee

Crème brulee (French for “burnt sugar”) is one of my favorite desserts. Before I started baking, I thought that this was a dessert only reserved for restaurants and I could never attempt it home. I was completely wrong, as I discovered that it’s so much easier than any cake or mousse that I’ve ever made. In fact, it was so easy that at one point I was making this every weekend. That’s the excited little kid in me, and I’ve settled down now.

This dessert consists of a rich custard base topped with a layer of hard caramel. The caramel is created by burning the sugar with a blow torch. The custard is traditionally flavored with vanilla, but you can enhance it with other flavors. Sometimes I add grand marnier and orange zest. Pistachio paste gives a very unique flavor too. Or try infusing it with tea or coffee!

The only tricky part of crème brulee is testing for doneness. You want a perfect creamy and silky consistency without it being runny. The best test for doneness is the “jiggle” test. As the custards cook, reach into the oven and gently shake one with tongs or an oven mitt. It’s perfect when the edges are set but the inner custard jiggles slightly. You want to be careful not to cook them past this point or you will end up with a pasty consistency.

Crème brulee can be made in advance, but you shouldn’t caramelize the sugar until you are ready to serve. I’d say 30 minutes max…any longer and the hardened sugar will start softening. The contrast between the hard, bitter sugar and creamy, sweet custard defines this dessert. Serve it with a glass of moscato for the perfect compliment.

See Recipe!

Spicy Chicken Wings

So, now that summer’s over, football season is taking over our lives! I dread this time of year. Everything in Neil’s schedule revolves around football. We both went to Virginia Tech, and he’s had Hokie season tickets ever since 1999, which means random wknd trips to Blacksburg, VA. Fantasy football leagues also cut into his time…so much research, you’d think he was writing a paper. But, more importantly, he was born and raised in Pittsburgh, so the Steelers are his first love. I suppose I’m a close second. Personally, I think Steelers fans are probably the most insane of the bunch. Have you noticed that any sporting event you go to, be it baseball, hockey, etc, you’ll spot a random Joe wearing a Steeler’s jersey? Anyways, this is an obsession that I’ll never really understand, so I’ve just learned to accept it. In fact, I have to root for the Steeler’s too, b/c the crappy mood he’s in after a loss is annoying as hell. At least he doesn’t have season tickets to the Steelers!! He’s been on the waiting list for 15 years now….he even put me on the waiting list! But, year after a year, just another rejection letter :) Better luck next year!

The only thing I like about football season is the FOOD! Wings, pizza, burgers, nachos, brats etc…I absolutely love game food! And I absolutely love these spicy sriracha wings, invented by chef Michael Symon. You might remember him from The Next Iron Chef. His recipe is absolutely phenomenal. The main ingredient is the spicy chili-garlic sriracha sauce which you will find on any table in your local Asian restaurant. His unique take on chicken wings packs a lot of heat, tang, and sweetness all in one. Anyone we serve this to has raved about the sauce. This is a must try for a tailgate or on game night. We’re totally hooked!

See Recipe!

Goat Cheese Tart with Basil/Chive Crust

If I haven’t mentioned it enough already on this blog, let me reiterate that goat cheese is my absolute favorite cheese! I love the tang and depth of the cheese. Some are obviously stronger in flavor than others. Neil won’t go near it, so I’ve had to stop making any goat cheese dishes for us. I made this goat cheese tart for a friend’s party. You have to like goat cheese in order to enjoy this tart. I absolutely loved it and could have devoured the whole thing myself. Neil on the other hand almost had a gag reflex after trying it. I seriously think that it’s psychological with him, and little by little I’ll make him a goat cheese lover too. Anyways, paired with a crisp arugula salad, and a glass of wine, this tart makes for a wonderful dinner. If you are one of the “haters”, then try using a different cheese in this tart, because the basil /chive crust is great!



Btw, I found an interesting little tidbit about goat cheese on-line that I wasn’t aware of:

“Goat cheese is less calorie dense then cheeses made from milk from cows or sheep. Fats in goat's milk and cheese are easier to process in the digestive system, therefore some individuals who can not have other milk products, might be able to have goat's milk and cheese”

As if I needed a reason :)

See Recipe!

Fruit Bavarian Cake

Fruit Bavarian was probably my favorite cake growing up, and seems to be a favorite amongst many households. It seemed to be at every party that my parents took me to. Now it’s the cake I make when requested a dessert for a summer party. It’s a very light tasting cake consisting of sponge cake, bavarian cream, fresh fruit, and a whipped topping. Yes, I’m painfully aware that summer is officially over, but I couldn’t help it. My mind is still on summer, and I’m trying to enjoy every last bit of warm weather. Btw, it's still pretty hot out. And I think you can still snag some berries to decorate this cake. I posted a couple pictures of different times I made the cake…just slight variations on the décor.

Traditionally this cake is made with a somewhat labor intensive bavarian cream filling. It requires a crème anglaise base and a lot of patience. Lately I’ve been cheating and just make a pastry cream that I lighten with whipped cream….very close to the original! I’m including the recipe for the lightened pastry cream, as this has been my method in place of bavarian cream. Let me know if you’d like the bavarian cream recipe as well, and I’ll send it your way!

See Recipe!

Tres Leches

Tres Leches or “3-Milk Cake” is what I served on fish taco night. I wanted a Mexican themed dessert. I thought of making churros or sopapillas, but both desserts require on the spot preparation and consumption. I wanted to enjoy the evening...not to mention I down quite a bit of sangria on mexican nights, so making dessert after that is probably not a good idea. I needed something that could be made in advance and taste just as good, if not better when finally served. Tres Leches is literally a sponge cake that’s soaked with 3 milks (and a little "splash" of liquor :) The more time it sits, the more it absorbs. It sounds a little weird but tastes great…not too sweet, extremely moist, and very light tasting. It’s a welcomed change from the typical.

See Recipe!

Fish Tacos

Since this post, I've done some more experimenting and I have the following additional tips for even crispier fish tacos:
- Everything should be ICE COLD. Your beer should be cold, and set your bowl of batter over an ice bath.
- Do not make batter ahead of time.
- Use Rice flour instead of All Purpose Flour. Even Cake or Pastry flour work better than All Purpose. The measurement is the same.
- If you prefer All Purpose Flour, don't overmix or it will develop glutens, making a softer/less crispy coating once fried. Also add a little baking powder.
- Fold in an egg white beaten to stiff peaks into the batter right before coating the fish.
- Heat oil to 20 degrees higher than normal temperature- about 375 degrees. Otherwise the ice cold batter will cool down the oil too much.

Well, it's Labor Day...I have mixed emotions on this day, b/c all media marks it as the "official end of summer." How so? It's still hot out! People can still grill, picnic, and simply enjoy the outdoors. There's no need to make such a proclomation and ruin my happy summer mood. Summer's not over for me yet, and my serotonin is still going strong. I plan to make the best of the warm weather that's here to stay for a while. And dare I say it, maybe even wear white shoes!

Enough venting, and on to my next "summertime eat"...fish tacos! Good fish tacos are hard to come by here. East coast Mexican has been overdone and over-run by the “tex-mex”. I do enjoy tex-mex, but I crave the Mexican that I had in Cabo. Real Mexican food should be simple and fish tacos exemplify simplicity at its best, consisting of a tortilla, lightly fried fish, zesty sauce, and a fresh, crunchy cabbage garnish. The textures and flavor is awesome, and it totally hits the spot on a hot day. The only ones I like in this area are served at Guajillo, but they don’t hold a candle to the ones that I’ve had in Mexico. When we were in Los Cabos, fish tacos were a daily ritual, and now a summer ritual at our home on the east coast.

I played around with different recipes after returning from Cabo. Every recipe had a different take on the batter, some having egg/milk, others having beer. The batters w/ egg or milk were a little too heavy and didn’t result in a crispy coating. I found that the crispiest fish came from a simple batter of equal parts beer and flour. The base of this recipe was given to me by my foodie and chef in training coworker. If you have had real fish tacos, I really think you’ll love this recipe. Also, they are extremely inexpensive to make for a crowd!

The picture above also has a carnitas taco sitting alongside the fish taco. I happened to stumble upon readymade carnitas at Trader Joes that day, so tried it. All I added to the carnitas was some sautéed onions, cumin, and a little bit of chipotle in adobo. They were super tasty, and I love having variety on my plate! Neil thinks I’m a freak of nature, because I have a strict methodology to cleaning any varietal plate. I take a bite of the fish taco, some rice/beans, sip my drink, then a bite of the carnitas taco, some rice/beans, sip my drink…. and then do it all over again :) Neil on the other hand will eat his entire fish taco first, then the carnitas tacos, and the rice/beans last. This drives me absolutely nuts!!! Where's the logic in that !?!?!

Anyways, I also made fresh corn tortillas for the tacos. Enjoy!

See Fish Taco Recipe!
See Corn Tortilla Recipe!

Fresh Basil & Chive Pasta w/ Tomato Sauce

Neil bought me a pasta rolling attachment for my kitchenaide mixture a couple years ago. It was actually a gift for finally completing my financial certification. I have to admit, at first I was a little annoyed by the “gift”….I mean, isn’t it more of a gift for him? Does he expect me to make him fresh pasta on top of all the other home cooked meals I make him? Why not buy me jewelry or a designer bag? Well, Neil knew what he was doing, and he wasn’t being selfish. Any gift at all is a kind gesture, which I lost sight of. Also, he knew how much joy this would bring me. As time would tell, I became obsessed with this gadget and have been playing with it ever since….and yes, I did thank him for it :)

I often dedicate an entire day to making loads of fresh pasta and ravioli. It’s fun, relaxing, and therapeutic. It takes a while to get the hang of it, but once you do, it’s like second nature. It’s also peak tomato season, so it’s the perfect time to show off fresh pasta with a light, refreshing, uncooked tomato sauce. Recently, I made a basil/chive pasta and dressed it with a fresh tomato sauce recipe that I’ve been using for years. Neil calls it “Summer Pasta”, and rightfully so, because it’s a summertime favorite in our house. Hmm…part of me still thinks that this gift wasn’t completely selfless :)

See Fresh Basil & Chive Pasta Recipe!
See Summer Tomato Sauce Recipe!

Chocolate Cupcakes w/ White Chocolate Icing

It’s been a while since I posted something sweet. Nothing’s sweeter than a cupcake! My mom use to send a huge box full of cupcakes to school for our bdays. It’s sad to think that homemade treats aren’t even allowed in most schools these days! I remember one scorching hot May bday on which the icing on the cupcakes she sent had all melted. I was so concerned that nobody in my 3rd grade class would eat them and my bday would be ruined (yes, I can be a bit of a drama queen). But, they ended up tasting way better that way…all gooey due to the melting, moist, and yum. The cupcakes were a hit and so was I for day…but soon back to loser status :) We grew older, and somewhere along the way my mom stopped making cupcakes, and I went on to making cakes.

I’ve been getting a tired of baking cakes lately. Cupcakes are just more fun, and nothing is more nostalgic. They are also way cuter than a cake, and if you haven’t noticed, oh so trendier. So, I tried to convert some of my cake recipes to cupcakes, w/ little success. As whole cakes, the recipes were fine, but didn’t double as cupcakes. They didn’t have the soft, moist texture that a cupcake should. Some were too dense, while others were dry and flaky. I almost gave up and bought a box mix (which btw, are also great), but I held out. I did some more trial and error, and found a chocolate cake recipe that used mayo instead of eggs/butter/oil. Believe me, this recipe makes the perfect chocolate cupcake. Perfect texture and taste. Don’t get turned off by the mayo. Give it a chance! I made a creamy white chocolate icing to go on top.

This time I returned the favor and gave some to my mom to take to work. I hope she was a hit :) Next I’ll be experimenting with Red Velvet cupcakes. If you have a good one, please send my way!

See Recipe!

"Vegikopitas"

Spanakopitas have always been one of my favorite finger foods. I remember chasing down the servers at weddings and corporate events to get my hands on as many as possible...flakes falling on to my dress with every bite. I love the combination of spinach, onion, herbs and tangy feta all wrapped up in a buttery, flaky pastry. But think about the possibilities! You could do roasted peppers, squash, mushrooms, basil, brie, GOAT CHEESE, etc. This appetizer is so versatile, that I fill it with whatever veggies/cheese I have and make “vegikopitas”. I seriously feel like Rachel Ray, giving it made-up name, but I think it’s fitting. Don’t worry, you’ll never see her “naan-chos” on this blog. I do have my limits!

The most awesome thing about these is that you can make them well in advance and freeze for months. Just transfer straight to the oven when you have an unexpected guest! This is a great meze for a Mediterranean themed night as well, as I did for the Turkish feast.

See Recipe!

Zucchini Cakes

It's zucchini squash season! I love zucchini and I had the most awesome zucchini cakes while in Turkey. I tried to recreate it at home by looking up random recipes and combining what I thought was the best ingredients of the bunch. I ended up with very soft, tasty cakes, and pretty damn close to the original. I served it with a yogurt dill sauce which I made by combining greek yogurt, fresh dill, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt/pepper.

I used feta cheese in the recipe, but I think it would taste way better with goat cheese. Much to my dismay, Neil has a strong aversion to it, so much so that I can't even get away with sneaking it in...like I do most things that he "thinks" he dislikes ;)

See Recipe!

Turkish Feast

We’ve been craving Turkish food constantly since our return from Turkey. So, we cooked a Turkish feast complete with yummy mezes, kebabs, and fresh pita bread. Why didn’t we think of this before?!?! Our menu consisted of the following:

Hummus, Dolmades, Zucchini cakes, Mixed Vegetable Spanikopitas, Grilled Eggplant/Peppers/Onions, Kebabs, Chicken Skewers, Lamb Chops, Fresh Pita Bread, and Vermicelli Rice Pilaf. I think I got it all!! Oh and we had some Turkish Delight and Baklava for dessert, compliments of Turkey. The food took me right back. Now if only I could figure out how to recreate the incredible views in my dinky backyard.

We got all of our meat from the Lebanese Butcher in Falls Church and it was freshest quality meat (much better than gourmet grocery stores) and also very inexpensive! I bought a mixture of ground lamb and veal for making the kebabs. We bought lamb chops that we marinated in harissa sauce, red wine vinegar, oil, salt/pepper, and Turkish spices from Turkey. We also bought their prepared chicken skewers already marinated and ready to be grilled. The chicken skewers delicious, and didn’t need any altering…not even salt!

Anyhow, check out the recipes for the Lamb Kebabs and Fresh Pita Bread below. I’ll post the Zucchini Cakes, Mixed Veggies Spanikopitas, and Rice Pilaf soon.

See Kebab Recipe!
See Pita Bread Recipe!

Turkey

For the last couple weeks (July 4- July 16, 2008), we’ve been on the most fabulous vacation. Neil and I took a trip to Turkey (Antalya & Istanbul), with a short stopover in Rome (b/c Neil had to appease me). I have never been so depressed to return to the States! Turkey was the highlight of our trip and we can’t wait to return and experience more of its beauty, life, and food! Check out my slideshows below and write-ups. Rome was our first stop on the trip. Since I already posted on Rome in my Italy post, I’ll skip that part. After Rome, we next went to Antalya for 3 nights, and Istanbul for 5 nights. Sadly, the time in Turkey wasn’t enough...and of course Neil keeps pointing out that we didn't "have" to do Rome since we've done it before. I'll suck it up and admit that he's right...only on this blog :)

ANTALYA

Antalya is Turkey’s and much of Europe’s holiday getaway on the Mediterranean coast. The only place I have to compare it to is the Greek Islands, and it can definitely compete (not to mention the food is WAY better in Turkey). The coastline is an incredible site, and we had a beautiful view of it from our hotel balcony. We stayed at the Sheraton resort right near the beach, and right next door to an area called the “Beach Park”. The beach park is quite an impressive area. It’s a pedestrian walkway that is over a mile long and lined with beach nightclubs, restaurants, and spots to relax with drinks and hookha along the way. You’ll see club after club pumping euro music way into the morning hours along the beach side. On the other side you’ll see café/restaurants/hookha bars that are lined up with eclectic outside seating and hundreds of beanbags (yes beanbags!). ..it’s an area for pure relaxation and social gathering. It’s hard to describe so check out the pictures in the slideshow. The beach park is massive and I’ve never seen anything like it!
About a mile from the beach is the picturesque old town of Kaleici. It is a very quaint town with narrow winding streets, old houses, and ancient walls. This area also has a number of boutique hotels and traditional Turkish restaurants. I'd compare it to the Plaka District of Athens. This is also the area that people go for market shopping (Turkish rugs, jewelry, spices, etc). The markets are abundant, and they tend to harass you when you are walking by, but not in a bad way. They are extremely friendly and no harm is done if you don’t wish to buy their goods. Bargaining is a requirement and a part of the experience! Near Kaleici, is a beautiful marina on the Mediterranean. We took a short 1 hour cruise of the Mediterranean from this area. Again, this area is lined with restaurants and is very lively, day and night. Our days in Antalya consisted of spending the daytime in Kaleici and the Marina. We’d get a delicious doner kebab on the go for lunch. Doner is a seasoned cut of lamb/veal that they wrap in a thin pita or bread. The literal meaning of doner is ‘turning roast’. Stands can be found everywhere. Before making our trip back to the hotel, we would stop at one of the various cafés that overlook the sea for a drink. I'd get my daily ice cream fix...Micky D's ice cream cone dipped in chocolate! Now why don't they do that here? We’d then head back to our hotel and lounge at the pool or beach park. Then we’d have to figure out a dinner venue which was a big task, b/c the possibilities are endless. Dinner is an experience of pure enjoyment in Turkey. Food is a huge part of their culture, and dinner usually lasts a couple of hours, complete with an assortment of mezes and main dishes. The mezes are mostly vegetarian, but the main dishes heavily consist of lamb, veal, beef kebabs with chicken options as well. Turkish food is incredible and I’m still craving it! We ended up at the below dinner venues. Our favorite was the one we found all on our own. The other two were “safe” hotel recommendations (not as good as the one we found). But, you’re guaranteed better than average food at any Turkish restaurant. My rec is not to listen to a chain hotel like the Sheraton b/c they are very cautious of giving venues where the locals go. Boutique hotels do a better job of this.

• Taraca Restaurant- Located along the beach park. Our favorite restaurant in Antalya, and one of our best meals in Turkey! The mezes were excellent. The kebab meat was also perfectly spiced and delicious. This was one of the few places in Antalya (and Turkey), that serves fresh Turkish flatbread as well.


• 7 Mehmet Restaurant- Located past the beach park; suggested by hotel and I read about it in my own research. Beautiful views of the Mediterranean, so try to go before dark. Mezes and kebabs were decent. No Turkish bread here..just regular sliced baguette bread which you can ask them to toast.


• Kral Sofrasi Restaurant- On the marina; suggested by hotel. Again, no Turkish bread here. The mezzes and kebabs were decent. They really try to push the fish on you here since it’s on the marina. It’s very heavily priced, and when they displayed their offerings of the night to us, we weren’t very impressed.

One thing to note in Turkey, is that if you want good wine you’ll pay a very high price. This was the only downside I found, b/c I love wine. They just aren’t into wine there. All the locals drink “Raki”, which is an anise flavored liqueur, and they drink this stiff drink in large quantities!! It’s usually mixed w/ a little water and ice cubes. Definitely try it for the experience, but be prepared for the hangover. Neil had it a couple of nights, but stuck w/ the Efes Turkish beer that grew on him towards the end of our trip. Oh, and cheap/bad wine also ended up growing on me towards the end of the trip...see, I'm not high maintenance :) On to Istanbul, the climax of the trip…

ISTANBUL

We absolutely fell in love with the city of Istanbul during our short 5 nights. The city is simply magical and alive 24/7. I’ve never seen anything like it. The city will never give any indication as to the time or day of week…the streets are always packed with locals and tourists alike. And this city is lined by the Maramara and Bosphorous seas, so the views from almost every point/venue of the city are breathtaking. The people were very welcoming and extremely helpful. They love Americans (they just hate BUSH). I can write forever about our experience in Istanbul, but I’ll keep this post to the major attractions and good eats. We stayed in a boutique hotel, Hotel Niles, located in Beyazit (old town Istanbul). It was a little bit away from some of the major areas, but we were right next to Istanbul’s very efficient tram system that we used everyday. We loved the hotel and would recommend it to anyone. It’s very affordable, clean, and the staff is excellent. They entertained all of our questions in detail, and trust me Neil can get pretty annoying with questions. There was a new concierge that started the day we arrived (such a cutie 22 year old), and he was given the most challenging week ever w/ Neil. Towards the end, he pointed out that Neil taught him a few things about the city. As you can see, Neil put him to work...so embarrassing!
The hotel also has a rooftop terrace, providing a great way to unwind after touring the city. Oh, and it has an EXCELLENT kebab house right next door! That was our dinner one night. The hotel plated the food for us on the terrace. It was one of the best meals we had in Istanbul! The only negative to the hotel is that it has smaller than average rooms, but we managed just fine. Here is how we spent our trip:


Major Attractions/ To Do-

• Hagia Sofya, Cisterns, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace are all must sees. I loved the Hagia Sofia especially. Topkapi Palace was also beautiful. Topkapi palace has an additional charge to see the Harem (the actual home of the Sultan). It’s really cool and worth seeing, so pay the extra 10 Lira. You can do the Hagia Sofya, Blue Mosque, and Cisterns in one day. Save Topkapi for another long morning. If you have more time for sightseeing, check out the museums.


• Grand Bazaar & Spice Bazaar- Both of these markets are worth seeing. But, as I mentioned with the shopping in Antalya, be prepared to be harassed, and it’s vital to bargain! Most don’t know what a good price is for anything, and there’s almost no way to know. If bargaining’s not your style, determine what you think it’s worth and decide not to pay more than that. It can be a time consuming and draining process though, especially if you start comparison shopping. Somehow I got sucked into a two hour ordeal w/ a vendor trying to sell me a turkish rug, and mind you, I had no intention of buying! I took Neil on quite an adventure on our bazaar day!


• Bosphorous Tour- This can be done by ferry, and most take a half day (6 hours), as they go to the Asia side where you can get off and tour. We didn’t want to spend half a day out on sea, so we found a 45 minute tourist ferry that goes from the nearby town of Ortakoy. It hits the major sites along the Bosphorous.


• Ortakoy- it’s not a must do, but we enjoyed this town. It’s very quaint and it’s where the locals go to getaway and unwind. This town has the best Potato (“Kumpir”) stands in Istanbul. It’s basically a massive potato bar with all sorts of weird toppings (cheese, sour cream, olives, peppers, couscous, spicy spreads, and even a potato salad topping!) It’s a must try. Ortakoy is also known for having the best Waffle stands. The waffles are stuffed up with any sweet fillings you desire and rolled up like a burrito. Such an awesome idea!


• Istiklal Street (“Caddesi”)- Located in the area of “Beyoglu”, this was the most amazing pedestrian street I’ve seen. Its runs from Taksim Square to the tunel square and is the pulse of the city. It’s the only place to soak up the true flavor of the city. We went almost everyday. It’s almost a mile long and lined with shops, cafes, eateries, restaurants, and side streets that reveal even more endless restaurants. It’s a wonderful place for people watching and to spend the day. You’ll find the locals stopping for Turkish tea and playing backgammon at the little tables on the walk. Backgammon and tea is a huge pastime in Turkey. There’s something for everyone on Istiklal Caddesi, and it’s pumping from the entire day and late night hours.


• Galata Bridge- This is a nice walking trip. You’ll see tons of locals fishing off of the bridge. Be sure to get a Balik Ekmek (fish sandwich) near there. Get it from one of the vendor stands and not from the restaurants directly under the bridge. It’s so much better.






• Meyhanes- You cannot visit Istanbul without experiencing a Meyhane or two for dinner. This is the local’s spot for gathering, having mezes, and drinking raki. The atmoshphere is complete with music, fun, and laughter. Don’t be surprised if the people at the table next to strikes up conversation. It’s just a big party and everyone is family. The best area for Meyhanes is on the Asmalmescit Sokak (a side street off of Istaklal Street). You can just shop around a choose one, b/c there are many, and I hear all are good. Our favorite meyhane was Yakup 2. It’s fun even if you don’t drink, and other drinks are offered besides Raki. But if you want to try Raki, a meyhane is definitely the place.


• Turkish Delight & Baklava- Can’t do Turkey without trying these. Koska Bakery had the best Turkish delight. It’s located right on Istaklal, and there’s a couple shops in Beyazit also. I didn’t even like the stuff before I tried it in Istanbul. It grows on you. Baklava was pretty incredible everywhere. We enjoyed this at the Koska bakery as well.

Istanbul Restaurants-

We ate most of our lunches from street vendors, b/c they had the best doner sandwiches and pides (Turkish pizzas!). But you can find many sit down places for lunch and cafes for drinks/snacks. Istaklal street has endless options for all cravings. Like Antalya, choosing a place for dinner is always a dilemma. This city loves to eat and it has restaurants galore. We stuck with all Turkish restaurants, although eclectic/international cuisine is abundant. Be sure to ask prices before going to a restaurant (they are use to this), and also ask if alcohol is served. There’s a minority of venues that don’t serve alcohol. But, these are usually located in more conservative sections of Istanbul. Also, be aware that any restaurant with a view of the Maramara and Bosphorous seas are going to be more expensive and sometimes not as good food as other restaurants. But, the views alone are worth it. In terms of restaurant pricing, you’ll pay quite a bit to drink alcohol, but food is generally priced fair. Here goes:

• Hamdi Restaurant (Tahmis Cad. Kalcin Sok. No:17, Eminonu; phone: 0212 528 03 90 – 512 54 24; web: www.hamdirestorant.com.tr)- Located in the old city and very popular. Make reservations in advance (even before your trip), so you can get a table on the terrace. The views are incredible and so is the food. Service is a bit rushed though due to the popularity. This place also serves fresh Turkish flatbread as opposed to just loaf bread. The pistachio and spicy kebabs are a must. Be sure to get the spicy meze made of ground nuts, cumin, and spices!


• Yakup 2- Asmali Mescit Street in Beyogul (off of Istaklal Street); This was our favorite meyhane. We didn’t even order a main course here. We just ordered a bunch of delicious mezes and raki. Must try the fried eggplant with yogurt here. Fried shrimp with peppers also delish. No fresh Turkish bread.


• Sofilya 9- Asmalmescit Sokak in Beyogu (off of Istaklal Street); Another meyhane. The food was cheaper that Yakup 2, but I didn’t find it as tasty. The boregis (cheese/meat filled Turkish pastries) were excellent though, and it was still a fun experience. No fresh Turkish bread.


• Fenir Fish Restaurant- In the Kumkapi area. This is a really fun area to dine and has all fish restaurants. It’s complete with dancing, live music, and tons of people. However, be wary that it’s very pricey for so so food. The fish wasn’t anything better than we get in the states, which I was surprised by. If you go, it’s more for the overall experience instead of the food.


• Leb-i-derya (Kumbaraci yokusu, 57/6-7 Tunel, Beyoglu; phone: 0212 293 49 89/0212 243 95 55; web: www.lebiderya.com). Right off of Istaklal, this restaurant is a must visit for a pre-dinner drink and some mezes because the views are spectacular. Be sure to go to this one and NOT the one in the nearby Richmond Hotel, b/c you won’t get the same views. It’s a very trendy place and the food is eclectic. The menu looks great, and we’ve heard great things about the food, but we decided to just do drinks and a couple apps before our real dinner. We wanted to stick to traditional Turkish cuisine on the trip. You have to get a seat on the terrace for the views….although the inside views are nice too. It is truly an amazing experience.


• 360 Istanbul- Next to St. Antoine church on Istaklal Street. The name says it all…panoramic view of Istanbul. The food is not good and pricey. So go for pre-drinks or after dinner. We went after dinner and thoroughly enjoyed the views.


• Nupera/Nutera- This is a rooftop bar/restaurant in Beyoglu off of Istaklal. Again, not great for food, but you get a beautiful view of the sunset and the city. We went for drinks.

Other restaurants that were recommended to us but didn’t have the time were Develi (kebabs, suppose to be better than Hamdi), Doga Balik (fish and nice views), Fishmekan (fish and kebabs), Kiyi (suppose to be BEST fish around), Refik (meyhane), Assk Kahve (for lunch/brunch), Hunkar (Turkish homestyle food), Sunset Bar & Grill (amazing sunset views- good for drinks, not food).

Istanbul Nightspots-
We didn’t hit up a lot of the major afterhour venues, as we were out during late hours on our Meyhane nights. Note that alcohol is pretty pricey at all the bars. We joined some locals we met at a meyhane to an 80’s rock bar called Mojo (on Istaklal). They had a pretty comical turkish coverband singer who was singing tons of 80s and Turkish songs which the crowd went nuts for. Needless to say, it was right up my alley! For euro/techno music, you can check out 360 Istanbul. Other places are Reina, Sortie, and Angelie (Reina being the most popular). They are the trendiest, exclusive, most pretentious nightclubs in Istanbul, and drinks can cost you up to 30- 40 lira easily. They also serve dinner, but I hear the food is super expensive and horrible. These clubs are right on the water along the Bosphorous, and people say that it is a must do just for that. We never made it, b/c we were too tired to deal with the ordeal, and were having too much fun just on Istaklal street. If you decide to go to Reina, Sortie, or Angelie, make a reservation for food, and just get a few drinks/apps. Then proceed to the club. If you don’t, it'll be a pain to get into the club later. I know I missed a lot of vital info, so please don’t hesitate to contact me with specific questions. We are definitely going to return to Turkey in the future and check out some of its other magical cities such as Ankara, Izmir, and Bodrum. Turkey rocks!!!